Out of the fitting room
The book you are holding is a special issue of Modes Pratiques. Two or three times a year since 2015, the “staff” of Modes Pratiques has met at the Duperré School of Art and Design in Paris to talk. We talk about clothes and fashion, fashion people, fashion scholars, fashion gossip and the like… From the indis-pensable chaos of our conversations stories emerge, as do thoughts and pro-posals—some whimsical, others fanciful. Many of our ideas remain unfulfilled, abandoned in the fitting room of our ambitions.
From this nebulous body of intuitions then emerges what will become the focus of the annual issue of Modes Pratiques: its core theme. “Norms and Transgres-sions” was the theme of the first issue. “Without Fashion“ was the second one. This special issue, translated in English, presents a selection of papers pub-lished in these two French editions.
Norms, formulated or not, are one of the threads of the way clothes are made, worn, and perceived. Transgressions illuminate their borders. In Modes Pra-tiques n°1, we followed several tracks, among them: bathing etiquette in Cal-ifornia in the early twentieth century, crew uniforms, blue-collared clothes in nineteenth-century Paris, drag-queen balls in Paris, dance halls during the 1920’s and 1930’s, and “Voguing“ ceremonies in today’s suburbs…
“Can we live without fashion?“ asks Modes Pratiques Issue n°2. This issue ex-plored frontiers where fashion is ignored, banned, rejected or demonized: times of scarcity during World War I, nudist utopias in Germany at the turn of the twen-tieth century, French feminist wardrobes, Wild Boys escaped from the novel of William S. Burroughs, the Summer of Love in 1967, the clothing regime of Sioux reservations, veil addicts during the French Revolution, and the story of Tarno, a young funk music lover from Nigeria who became an Islamic preacher …
ISBN 9791095518112
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Scanning Fashion
an interview of Katerina Jebb by Romy Texier. Paris, November 2017.
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Delphine Baron, “the Queen of Fancy Dress” on Trial
Costume Balls and Social Norms during the Second Empire
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Rags and Ads
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Controversy in Los Angeles
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French Theory
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Cabin Crew Uniforms
The Uniforms of the Flying Crew at Air France, between Rules and Reality, as Told by Those who Wear them
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The Working Man’s Blouse in 19th Century Paris
The Norms of Dignity
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Their Ball
Notes on the Photos of Magic-City, Drag Ball of the Inter-War Period
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Voguing… or the Height of Exaggeration (Paris, 2015)
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Decree of King Henry II Regarding Reformation of the Superfluity of Silk Clothing
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Ajustements
Bodies and Clothing in Standard Industrial Sizes duringthe 19th Century
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The “Blank” Degree of Style
What Happened to the “Normcore” Trend
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Fashion in Moderation
The Ligue sociale d’acheteurs and the Appeal to Female Consumers at the Turn of the 20th Century
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Lancaster Amish Country, a photographic enquiry
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Veils of the Revolution
Proletarians, Slaves, Outcasts and Fashionistas
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Tarno, from Funk to Prophet
Ampleness, Bell-Bottoms, “Realities” of Fashion and re-Islamisation
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Fashion Beyond Cloth
Portraits of Mannequins by Photographer Nicolas Descottes, Erwan de Fligué collection
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Fashion in Times of Scarcity (1944-1951)
The Diaries of a Teenager, Jane Aubaile
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On Immodesty and Modesty
Clothing Issues and Struggles in New Caledonia, 19th-20th Centuries
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There’s no Such Thing as the Indian Dress
The Clothing Regime of a Sioux Reservation (1868-1968)
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“Clothing is a Crime”
Naked in all Places and Circumstances. The German Prophets of Permanent Nudity at the Turn of the 20th Century
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Summer of Love, 1967
A photographic reporting
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From Refusal of Fashion to the Creation of an ’Anti-Fashion’
Neo-rural Communities in France, from the late 1960s to the mid 1970s.
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The Wild Boys
From the novel of William S. Burroughs
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Fashion, Clothes, and Feminism
Interviews with feminist activists
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Fashion in Ashes
New Collections for the Hereafter
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In French Fashion
From One Court to Another, the Proprieties of a Passing Beauty